Monday, January 1, 2018

Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

Just search ‘裝裱’ on Youtube and you will find some videos of some pros doing mounting. All you need to do is watch carefully what they do and you should be able to work out the details. The video I tried to link to goes under the title of ‘Scroll mounting in Taiwan – part 2 書畫裝裱 – 卷軸’ at 23mins in where the person starts to paste the backing paper to the scroll (though he has also attached a head wrapper as well but the process of pile-on backing is the same). #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

The link seems to be broken…

charlesrtsua, could you provide us with some more links on Chinese mounting, that you find helpful? I think that would make everyone happy and grateful! #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

Thank you, charlesrtsua!

your tips are helpful, especially nr. 2!

I’m a bit uncomfortable with letting out to dry face up, with the flaps sticking up…I fear possible deformations, buckling maybe…of the flaps I mean. But I definitely understand what you say and I will try it!

Also, with the slightly thicker xuan I’ll be able to do tip nr. 2 just fine!

Thank you! #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

Your paste might be too wet, hence why the adhesive seems to seep through a stick the scroll flap to the lining. Here’s what you could do:

1. Fold the flaps down in towards the scroll so the paper side of the flap is not in contact with the paper lining.

2. Do not use the wet backing method and instead use the pile-on (i.e. paste the backing paper instead and then brush it onto the back of the scroll: e.g. https://youtu.be/JIk9zgQF4_Q?t=23m10s).

3. Do not stick it on the drying board face down but face up and make sure the flaps are sticking out. After it dries overnight, take off board, spray wet again, paste the edges then attach facing down.

4. Use a paste not too wet and do not wet the scroll too much. #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

I must admit I used Japanese mulberry paper (quite thin) for the whole thing from start to finish…maybe that’s why the paste went through. #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

charlesrtsua,

After I do what you just said, am I not supposed to put the scroll face down on the table, moist or completely soak with water, remove excess humidity, paste the whole thing (including the pockets), apply final backing, transfer to drying board, face down?

The only time I completed a scroll, at this stage the pockets got sticked to the scroll, underneath the final backing. I had to paste new ones over the final backing to complete the scroll. #ChineseMounting

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Peter Kocak 渝霖

Techniques: classic ink brush, chinese paper, ink Art for Sale: please send me a message. Art Album: please visit my online album.  Teaching: I am university art college professor, teaching printmaking art, engraving,...

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

If you mean how to install the lining flaps for the rods onto the two ends of the scroll before the final backing goes on, you first need to cut out two pieces of xuan of the correct width as the scroll width (after you have finished the two side edges off appropriately by either binding with a strip of xuan or folding in, making sure the width is consistent top to bottom), then the appropriate height for heaven and earth rods (e.g. 10cm for the heaven, 25cm for the earth), plus around 0.5-1cm extra for the seam allowance.

Then, fold the two ends of the scroll in towards the face of the scroll, roughly 5cm for the earth, 2cm for the heaven. Then turn the scroll so it faces down, place the fold of one end against the edge of the table. use a plastic sheet and place it around 0.5cm away from the edge to mark the gluing area then apply paste to that said area. Remove the sheet then adhere one edge of the appropriate lining flap of xuan onto this strip of glue. Then you can unfold the part of the scroll flap. Do the same for the other end. After they have dried you can then proceed to back the entire scroll; the scroll flaps would be free and wouldn’t stick to the lining. #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

Happy new year, everyone!

Hi, charlesrtsua!

Could you share some tips about how you paste the “pockets” for the upper and lower rods?

I mean, you are supposed to do it before the final backing. Then the whole thing gets paste, and then the final backing on top, before going to the drying board face down (this  time). But you must do something to prevent the pockets from completely sticking to the painting…what do you do? use a little patch of melinex or some other anti-adherent material?

Thanks! #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: How can I avoid ink ´running off the painting´when I mount my painting?

There are several ways to avoid ruining ink:

1. Avoid using bottled or poor ink which tends not to bind well with paper. If that can’t be helped then avoid using the wet backing method and use the pile-on method where the backing sheet is pasted rather than the work to avoid the work getting soaked.

2. Avoid backing immediately after a work has been finished. Finished works need time to rest so the pigments bind and settle on the paper well.

3. Prepare the work before hand with an application of alum-glue solution to fix the pigments. This is a must for works on sized paper and heavy pigment work in general.

4. Don’t use a paste that is too wet. When using the pile-on backing method, the pasted backing sheet should also be placed on some newspaper so the excess moisture is soaked up and the backing sheet is drier and won’t soak the work. #SuInk

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Reply To: Second layer, mounting.

For the final backing (after you’ve backed your work and attached the silk borders etc) should be double-ply xuan (i.e. two layers of sing-ply xuan) or triple if it is a larger work. You can either use double-ply xuan (easier and quicker) or stick two sheets of single together, which can be done at the same time as backing; simply apply paste to the first sheet, then carefully brush on the second on top (you need to be good at alignment to get them both more or less straight on) then apply paste on top after before rolling a sheet of newspaper under the now double-ply xuan and putting to aside to soak up the excess moisture before you use it to back the work. #ChineseMounting

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Reply To: Preparation of palm fibre brush

You need to boil the brush in order to rid the brush of the natural purple-brown dye inherent within the fibres and reduce the amount of dirt as well as make it softer. There are many ways to do this but this is how I do it:

1. First, remove the first or three rows of stitching on the bottom of the brush. This depends on the quality of the brush. The best brushes are made with tight stitching and so have more rows than standard brushes with fewer, wide spaced out ones. Removing these stitches makes the brush more pliable and flexible. To remove, use a knife and some pliers to cut, being careful not to cut into the actual fibres of the brush itself and use the pliers to pull the stitches out. If you want the brush stiff then you can skip this step.

2. Then, trim the tip of the brush so the outer edges slant inwards; i.e. form a soft V when looking down the brush. You could also trim it so it is more like a U. It is really down to what purpose you have for the brush; whether it is for smoothing backing paper down or applying glue to mounting silk etc. You can keep it untrimmed if you are using it to bash down on seams and edges etc.

3. Sand down the tip of the brush by rubbing it over sandpaper. Use several grades from coarse to fine. Some people just rub it on a paving slab in the garden. This needs to be done to soften the tips of the fibres so it would be less likely to damage the paper.

4. Prepare a tub of hot water with bicarbonate of soda dissolved into it (or soda water if you have it). Immerse the brush into it and let it soak overnight.

5. Next day, prepare a large pan on the stove of water and add bicarbonate of soda into it (or use soda water). Bring to boil then immerse the brush into it. Boil for at least an hour, stirring and turning it from time to time. Some people reduce or prolong the boiling time. It all depends on the size and quality of the brush and it really is trial and error on your part.

6. After it has been boiled, rinse under cold water to wash away the soda water. Then hang to dry naturally for a few days until completely dry.

7. After it has dried, take the brush and start bashing and brushing it aggressively on some white paper. This will start to dislodge all the dirt and broken fibres. Keep doing it until there is minimal dirt being dislodged. If it keeps giving a lot of dirt etc even after a while, then you must repeat from step 4 again. Otherwise, the brush is now ready for use. #Mounting;MountingBrush

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